A heavy cotton shirt with grommets all the way from the banded collar down the sleeves to the cuffs. The sleeves are held together by thick cotton lacing. Care in laundering (cold wash, hang dry) will preserve as much sleeve length and grommet life as possible. Fabric has a nice historic feel and worth the extra care. For added value, replace the cording with leather or contrast color cord. For extended life, hammer over the grommets before washing. Dyed leather can stain, so be aware of what you are using.
This shows the amount of material in the shirt, not what your chest measurement should be. There ought to be 2-6 inches of room between your chest and the shirt for the desired historical effect.
Medium: 48 inch chest
Large 52 inch chest
X-Large 56 inch chest
XX-Large 60 inch chest